Installation & Sizing

The right size depends on three things: how much electricity you use (check your bills in units/kWh), how much unshaded roof space you have, and how much sunlight your location gets.

As a rule of thumb, you size the system so its yearly generation covers most of your yearly consumption. Oversizing wastes money on power you export cheaply; undersizing leaves you buying more from the grid.

Your roof area sets a practical limit — each kilowatt of panels needs roughly 5–7 m². Use our solar calculator with your actual usage to get a recommended kW size before requesting quotes.

This is general guidance — figures vary by location, tariff, equipment and installer. Always confirm details for your own home before deciding.

The rooftop installation itself — mounting, panels, inverter and wiring — usually takes 1 to 3 days for a typical home, depending on system size and roof complexity.

The full journey is longer than just the install day. It includes a site survey and design, ordering equipment, the physical installation, and then inspection, grid approval and the net-meter change, which depend on your utility.

End to end, expect a few weeks from signing to switch-on, with most of that time spent on paperwork and utility approvals rather than the installation itself.

This is general guidance — figures vary by location, tariff, equipment and installer. Always confirm details for your own home before deciding.

Shade can meaningfully hurt solar panel performance, but "ruin" is a bit strong — how much it actually affects your system depends heavily on your inverter type and how much of the array is shaded, since even partial shading on one panel can disproportionately reduce output from an entire string in older string inverter setups due to how panels are wired together in series. With traditional string inverters, shading on just one panel can drag down the output of the whole string it's connected to, similar to how one dim bulb affects a series of old Christmas lights, making shade a bigger problem than the shaded area alone would suggest. Microinverters or power optimizers largely solve this issue since each panel operates independently, meaning shade on one panel only reduces that panel's output rather than dragging down others in the same string, which is why they're often recommended for roofs with partial shading from trees, chimneys, or nearby buildings. The severity of shading matters too — a few hours of morning or evening shade from a distant object has a much smaller impact than midday shade or shade that covers a large portion of the array, since midday sun typically contributes the most to daily production. Because shade's actual impact depends heavily on your inverter type, shading pattern, and array layout rather than being a fixed penalty, it's worth getting a site-specific shading analysis rather than assuming any shade makes solar a non-starter — Solar Bazaar can help you assess your roof's shading situation and recommend the right inverter setup to minimize its impact.

Yes, solar panels can be installed on flat roofs, and it's actually quite common — flat roof systems typically use tilted mounting racks or ballasted frames that angle the panels to an optimal tilt (often matching your location's latitude) rather than laying them flush against the roof, since flat panels without tilt would collect more dirt, shed rain poorly, and produce less energy overall. Ballasted mounting systems, which use weighted bases rather than roof penetrations to hold panels in place, are especially popular for flat roofs since they reduce the risk of leaks from drilling into the roof membrane, though some installations still use penetrating mounts for added wind resistance depending on your region's weather. One consideration unique to flat roofs is inter-row spacing — since panels are tilted, rows behind the front row can shade each other if not spaced properly, so flat roof layouts often fit fewer panels per square meter compared to a similarly sized pitched roof to avoid self-shading losses. Structural capacity is also worth checking, since ballasted systems add weight to the roof, and older or lighter-duty flat roofs may need reinforcement or a lighter racking solution to safely support the system. Because flat roof installations involve unique considerations around mounting type, spacing, and structural load that differ from standard pitched-roof setups, it's worth getting a professional assessment specific to your roof type — Solar Bazaar can help you evaluate whether your flat roof needs reinforcement and design a layout optimized for your space.

The ideal direction for solar panels depends on your location's hemisphere — in the northern hemisphere, south-facing panels typically get the most sunlight throughout the day, while in the southern hemisphere, north-facing panels perform best, since these orientations face the sun most directly for the longest periods. That said, east or west-facing panels can still work well and are sometimes preferred, especially if your household uses more electricity in the morning or evening rather than around midday when south-facing (or north-facing) panels peak. Roof tilt also plays a role alongside direction, since panels typically perform best at an angle roughly matching your location's latitude, though moderate deviations don't significantly hurt output. Because the ideal setup varies based on your exact location, roof layout, and usage patterns, it's worth getting a proper assessment rather than assuming one direction fits every home — Solar Bazaar can help you design a system oriented for maximum output based on your specific roof and energy profile.

Whether you need planning permission for solar panels depends heavily on your country, region, and specific installation details, since rules vary widely — in many places, residential rooftop solar falls under "permitted development" and doesn't require special planning permission, but this typically comes with conditions like panel height limits, not extending above the roofline by more than a certain amount, or restrictions if your home is in a conservation area or is a listed/heritage building. Ground-mounted systems, large commercial installations, or systems that significantly alter your home's exterior appearance are more likely to require formal planning approval, even in regions where standard rooftop installs don't. Separately from planning permission, most regions still require standard building permits and electrical permits for the installation itself, along with utility interconnection approval for grid-tied systems — these are usually distinct from "planning permission" in the zoning sense but are still mandatory steps you can't skip. Because permitted development rights, conservation area restrictions, and permit requirements vary significantly by country, state/province, and even local municipality, it's worth checking with your local planning authority or building department before starting your project rather than assuming a standard exemption applies — Solar Bazaar can help you understand the specific permitting and approval requirements for your location.

The general rule of thumb is to size your inverter close to your solar array's total wattage, typically within a DC-to-AC ratio of about 1.1 to 1.3, meaning a 10kW solar array would usually pair with an inverter rated around 7.7kW to 9kW, since panels rarely produce their full rated output simultaneously due to real-world conditions like temperature, angle, and less-than-perfect sunlight. This intentional "oversizing" of the panel array relative to the inverter (called DC/AC ratio or inverter loading ratio) is standard practice, since it maximizes energy harvest during lower-light periods like mornings, evenings, and cloudy days without wasting inverter capacity that would otherwise sit unused during peak sun hours. Going too far with an undersized inverter can lead to "clipping," where excess DC power beyond the inverter's AC capacity gets lost during peak production hours, while an oversized inverter relative to your panels wastes money on unnecessary capacity that your system will rarely if ever use. If you choose microinverters instead of a string inverter, sizing works differently since each panel gets its own small inverter matched to that specific panel's wattage rather than one central unit handling the whole array. Because the ideal inverter size depends on your specific panel array wattage, local climate conditions, and whether you're using string or microinverters, it's worth getting a professional system design rather than guessing at a ratio — Solar Bazaar can help you determine the right inverter size and type for your specific solar system.

Most homes need about 6–10 square meters (65–110 square feet) of roof space per kW of solar capacity installed, meaning a full residential system typically requires somewhere between 20–80 square meters (215–860 square feet), depending on your system size, which is largely determined by your household's electricity usage. The exact space needed also depends on panel efficiency and wattage — modern panels typically range from 350W to 600W each, so higher-efficiency panels can generate the same output using fewer panels and less roof space, which matters most for homes with limited or irregularly shaped roofs. Roof orientation and shading affect usable space too, since not all of your roof may be suitable for panels — sections with significant shading from trees, chimneys, or vents, or facing away from optimal sun exposure, may need to be excluded from your system's footprint even if the physical space is technically available. For most homes with average electricity usage (3,000–10,000 kWh annually), a standard roof provides more than enough usable space, but homes with higher energy needs or less favorable roof conditions may need to prioritize higher-efficiency panels to fit their system in the available area. Because the actual space required depends heavily on your specific energy usage, roof shape, and panel choice rather than a fixed number, it's worth getting a personalized roof assessment rather than relying on a general estimate — Solar Bazaar can help you calculate the exact roof space and panel layout suited to your home's energy needs and roof configuration.

Whether your roof is suitable for solar largely comes down to five key factors: orientation, tilt angle, shading, structural condition, and available space — a roof facing south (in the northern hemisphere) or north (in the southern hemisphere) with a tilt roughly matching your latitude tends to perform best, though east- or west-facing roofs can still work well depending on your usage patterns. Your roof's structural condition matters too, since panels typically last 25-30 years, and installing them on a roof nearing the end of its life or already showing damage means you may face a costly roof replacement later that requires removing and reinstalling the entire system — ideally, your roof should have at least 15-20 years of remaining life before installation. Shading from trees, chimneys, vents, or neighboring buildings can significantly reduce output, especially during midday hours when sun exposure matters most, so a proper shading analysis is essential regardless of how good your roof's orientation otherwise looks. You'll also need enough usable space — roughly 6-10 square meters per kW of system capacity — free from obstructions, with common roofing materials like asphalt shingle, metal, and tile all being compatible with solar, though each requires slightly different mounting hardware. Because roof suitability depends on multiple interacting factors rather than any single characteristic, and issues like structural condition or shading aren't always obvious without inspection, it's worth getting a professional assessment rather than guessing based on appearance alone — Solar Bazaar can help you evaluate whether your roof is ready for solar and design a system suited to your specific space and condition.

Technically, yes — DIY solar kits exist and it's possible to install solar panels yourself, but whether you should depends heavily on your electrical skills, local regulations, and how the system connects to your home, since improper installation carries real safety risks like electrical fires, roof damage, or personal injury from working at heights. The bigger obstacle for most homeowners isn't the physical panel mounting, but the electrical work — connecting to your home's wiring, inverter setup, and especially grid interconnection typically requires a licensed electrician, and most utilities won't approve net metering or grid connection for a system that wasn't installed and signed off by a certified professional. Permitting is another major hurdle, since most regions require permits and inspections for solar installations, and self-installed systems often struggle to pass inspection or qualify for warranties, insurance coverage, and incentive programs that typically require professional installation. DIY can make more sense for smaller, off-grid applications like a shed, RV, or standalone battery setup that doesn't need grid interconnection, where the stakes and regulatory requirements are considerably lower than a full home system. Because a failed or non-compliant DIY installation can end up costing more in fixes, lost incentives, or safety risks than professional installation would have in the first place, it's worth carefully weighing the savings against these risks — Solar Bazaar can help you understand what installation approach makes sense for your situation and connect you with qualified professionals if needed.